“Could other dishes evoke this kind of pleasure? On three visits, we ate our way through a good portion of the menu, a mix of starters, salads, shared plates and sushi. The jewel-toned mound of tuna and salmon tartar ($8, for two or more) practically melts into the velvety guacamole smeared underneath. Instead of bread or crackers, airy shrimp chips beg to scoop up each bite”